​97年的伯爵夫人红酒(黑伯爵夫人红酒)

97年的伯爵夫人红酒(黑伯爵夫人红酒)

97年的伯爵夫人红酒，一直是我的心头好。今年春节回老家，我特意带了一瓶伯爵夫人红酒，给家人朋友送去祝福。没想到，他们都说好喝，还说我是个懂生活的人。”说起自己的爱酒之旅，王女士笑得合不拢嘴。她介绍，伯爵夫人红酒是法国波尔多地区的特产，以优质葡萄酿制而成，口感醇厚，回味悠悠长。“这款酒的价格不菲，一瓶就要2000多元，我平时喝的都是几百元的红酒，没想到今天能喝到这么好的红酒。”王女士说。

1990是葡萄酒世界英雄辈出的大年——

Wine Legend: Comte de Vogüé, Musigny 1990, Burgundy, France

Number of bottles produced15,000

Composition100% Pinot Noir

Yield35hl/ha

Alcohol content13.6%

Release price311 francs (£39.25 at today’s price)

Current price£714-£790 a bottle

葡萄酒传奇：慕西尼武戈伯爵酒庄葡萄酒1990

产地：法国勃艮第

瓶装量：15000个

成分：100％黑比诺

产量：35hl / ha

酒精度：13.6％

发行价：311法郎（约合今39.25英镑）

现价：714- 790英镑/每瓶

A legend because…

1990 capped a trio of fine vintages in Burgundy, and this wine was widely recognised to have been one of the year’s greatest successes, showing a remarkable intensity and purity of fruit. Perfumed and delicate, silky yet imposing, it has always showed a tranquil opulence and perfect poise, as well as extraordinary length. It’s the quintessence of great red Burgundy. The quality of the wine struck tasters forcibly because the 1980s had been a dull patch for the estate, and the 1990 showed it was once again realising the potential of what many consider to be the finest vineyard in all of Burgundy.

缘起……

勃艮第1990年份包含了三款葡萄酒佳酿，而这款葡萄酒被公认为是当年最成功的葡萄酒之一，表现出非凡的果味强度和纯度。 充满香气，细腻柔滑，华丽壮美，总是呈现出一种宁静的馥郁和完美的平衡，以及非凡的长度。 这是伟大的红勃艮第的精华。 葡萄酒的品质强烈地刺激了品酒师，因为二十世纪八十年代是酒庄暗淡的年代。1990年份葡萄酒令人再次意识到了这里作为勃艮第最好的葡萄园的潜质。

Looking back

The magnificent de Vogüé estate, in the hands of the same family since 1450, had been in the doldrums for much of the 1970s and 1980s. The owner, Comte Georges de Vogüé, who died in 1987, had been an absentee landlord for the half-century that the property was in his hands. By the late 1980s it was being run by his daughter, the Baronne de Ladoucette, and her son-in-law, the Comte de Causans, but he died soon after taking up his post.

In the late 1980s there were drastic changes, thanks to a new team. By 1986 a new winemaker had arrived on the scene: François Millet. He was fully aware that the potential of the estate’s great sites was not being realised, and set in place a series of improvements, working closely with the estate manager Jean-Luc Pépin and vineyard manager Eric Bourgogne. Thus only vines over 25 years old were selected for the Musigny, with grapes from younger vines bottled as premier cru Chambolle. The spurt in the wines’ quality provided ample evidence of Millet’s ability, but he was notoriously uncommunicative about his winemaking approach, merely stating that he adapted the vinification and ageing to the nature of each vintage.

回顾

自1450年以来，宏大的武戈酒庄一直拥有在同一个家族手中，期间经历了二十世纪70年代和80年代多年的低迷状态。在1987年去世的乔治·武戈伯爵在长达半个世纪的时间里一直是酒庄外在领主。到了20世纪80年代后期，他的女儿德拉图切特男爵夫人和她的女婿德索桑伯爵经营酒庄，但是她女婿在接任后不久就去世了。

在二十世纪八十年代后期，由于一个新团队的贡献，酒庄发生了巨大的变化。到1986年，一位新的酿酒师上任：弗朗索瓦·米勒。他充分意识到这个伟大酒庄的潜力尚未得到挖掘，于是与酒庄经理Jean-LucPépin和葡萄园经理Eric Bourgogne紧密合作，进行了一系列的改进。于是只有25年以上的葡萄树才被选为Musigny葡萄酒原料，年轻葡萄制作的葡萄酒装瓶包装为Chambolle。葡萄酒质量的突飞猛进充分证明了米勒的能力，但他对酿造葡萄酒的方法却三缄其口，只是说他将葡萄酒的酿造和陈酿方法加以改造以适应每个年份的特质。

The vintage

Like 1989, this was a splendid and very warm year in Burgundy, but in 1990 the flowering was less even than the year before, which reduced the crop. With hindsight it can be claimed that this gave the grapes an additional concentration of flavour. The hot, dry summer thickened the skins, concentrating the juice even further, and giving a good dose of tannin to support the unctuous fruit.

年份

像1989年一样，这是勃艮第的一个非常辉煌而又温暖的年份，但在1990年，开花比上年少，导致收成降低。 事后看，可以说，这让葡萄有了另外的味道。 炎热干燥的夏季使得葡萄皮厚，果汁更加浓缩，并赋予丰盈的果实大量的单宁。

The terroir

The Musigny vineyard is a wonderful, 11ha (hectare) grand cru site, lying just above and to the north of the Château du Clos Vougeot. It is less easy is to define precisely why the Musigny vineyard regularly produces the most exquisite of all grand cru Burgundies. The site slopes gently, its thin topsoil containing a good deal of clay as well as small stones, and there are subtle variations from plot to plot. But excellent terroir on the mid-slopes of the Côte de Nuits is not rare, and yet Musigny is undoubtedly exceptional, if not unique.

风土

慕西尼葡萄园是一个美妙的，11公顷的特级园，位于 Clos Vougeot酒庄城堡的北面。 不难发现，为什么在勃艮第特级园中，慕西尼葡萄园会定期产出最精致的葡萄酒。 这块土地坡度较缓，其较薄的表土含有大量的粘土和碎石，各地块之间也有微妙的差异。 在路易坡的中部斜坡上不乏优秀的风土，但慕西尼无疑是非常优异的，如果不是独一无二的话。

The wine

Low yields and old vines are the prerequisite for the de Vogüé Musigny. Harvesting is not especially late, as the team is opposed to any hint of overripeness. Millet favours a lapse of time before fermentation, which takes place with indigenous yeasts in wooden vats, but he sets down no rules. He is no fan of unbridled new oak, and the proportion used in the grand cru wine is generally around one-third.

葡萄酒

低产量和老葡萄藤是武戈慕西尼的先决条件。 收获并不是特别晚，因为团队反对任何过熟迹象。 米勒喜欢在木桶中用本土酵母进行发酵，但他没有定规。 他并不一概迷信新橡木桶，而特级园葡萄酒所使用的比例一般在三分之一左右。

The reaction

Clive Coates MW found nothing to fault: ‘Brilliant nose! Super-concentrated. Very good oak integration. Great intensity. Multi-dimensional. Essence of raspberry… One of the wines of the vintage.’ When he tasted it again in 2009, he preferred it to the also highly rated 1993 vintage, adding that he would like to retaste it in five years’ time. Some critics have labelled the 1990 ‘Bordeauxesque’, to which Millet replies: ‘€˜Only those who tasted from barrel know the true potential of this wine.’

反响

葡萄酒大师克莱夫·科茨没有发现任何瑕疵：“出众的气味！超浓缩。 很好的橡木集合风味。 强度非凡。多维特质。 覆盆子的精华......这个年份的佳酿之一，“当他在2009年再次品尝时，相比也是高评分的1993年份葡萄酒，他更喜欢这款，并表示希望在五年内再次品尝它。 有些评论家把1990年份的酒贴上“波尔多型“的标签，对此，米勒回应：“只有那些从桶中品尝过该款葡萄酒的人才知道这款酒的真正潜力。“

译自——

The End